In the '00 to '02(?) bikes, the clutch bushing may seize up. The entire clutch assembly rides on the mainshaft via this bushing. The shaft spins with the clutch when it is engaged, and spins freely in the clutch hub when disengaged.

The symptom for a toasted bushing is a clutch that will not disengage. In some cases it will free up, but I would not suggest continuing to ride that way.

From the stories I have read the bushing obviously fails when the clutch is pulled in. It seems to happen when the bike is fairly new (not broken in, tighter tolerances?) and the clutch is pulled for extended periods, such as when the bike has been D/S'd and the victim is sitting at a stop light. I know of at least one failure that occured in the victims garage while he was revving it in gear trying to locate another problem. I am still running the original bushing on my '00 with no problems. I abuse the clutch by riding in second gear in tight woods, clutching like a 2-smoke.

Best bet here is to replace the bushing before it seizes. If it goes, you are looking at a 100 dollar main shaft and complete engine teardown instead of a 15 dollar bushing. The part number for the new bushing is 22116-MBN-671. Unfortunately, I cannot tell you exactly when they did the swap, but I can say that '00 and '01 is a must do. The fiche shows the old p/n all the way to '02. I can't find an '03 fiche.

Before I forget, if the bushing fails, try getting it warranted. This is a KNOWN problem through most reputable shops, and many guys, even with outside warranty bikes, have had it done. If you want to change the bushing yourself, it's not that big of a job. Buy a manual! Lay the bike on it's side and remove the entire right case cover. Tear down the clutch, remove the locking nut, and pull the assembly out to expose the bushing. Put the bike in 5th and have an assistant hold the rear brake, or stick a penny between the primary and clutch gear to hold things in place. Also, pack rags around the clutch to keep small parts out of the cases.