These mods are all pretty easy. The judder and extra disc mods need
nothing more than 8 and 10mm sockets, while the bushing replacement takes only
a bit more. If you are replacing the bushing, order at the same time the
large locking nut that holds the clutch center. It is P/N 90236-HA0-000 and is
an 18mm nut with a flange around it that is staked in place. You may also want
a new oring gasket, P/N 11352-MBN-671, for the clutch cover. I've found that
it can swell in length and be a pain to reinstall. In a pinch you can cut the
excess from the ring at it's highest point, and use a dab of RTV to seal it.
|
Plan on 1 steel plate (22321-KA4-710)
for the adding of a disc, and another fiber (22201-MW3-960) for the judder removal.
The
first step, as with any of the projects I have here, is to make sure you have a copy
of the service manual. I've said it before, I'll say it again, this is the bible for
your bike! Take a peek in the navbar at left and you'll find a link for a pdf
copy. It's only there until I get caught for copyright violation, so download it soon.
|
 |
One of the easiest
things here is what you DON'T have to do. Just clean the area, put the bike on it's
kickstand, and stuff a rag under the side cover to catch any oil as shown in the picture
above. This trick also works, if you're a neat freak like me, for filter changes.
After you've cleaned up
any leftover road kill and pulled the cover, remove the four bolts that hold the clutch
pressure plate in place. It'll be the bolt, washer, and a spring, in that order.
|
After you've
removed the four bolts, pull out the pressure plate and clutch pack. Also remove
the bearing and the small piece it rides on. Now is a good time to
check the plates for wear, warping, and overheating. If the clutch has been overheated,
the steel plates will be discolored. A piece of glass can be used to check for warping.
The service limits are listed below. Plate "A" is the 6 like fiber discs, plate "B"
is the lone fiber disc that the judder spring (the two skinny rings near the bottom,
one of which is concave)mates with, and then the 6 steel discs.
|
 |
- Plate "A" 3.00mm (.118in)
- Plate "B" 2.69mm (.106in)
- Steel (checking for warpage) 0.30mm (0.012in)
Chances are,
as long as they aren't warped or blued, the steel discs will be fine. The
plate next to the judder will have a groove worn in it.
If all you are intending
to do is add the plate or remove the judder, you can skip this next section on
replacing the bushing. As I said before, it's straightforward, easy, and cheap insurance
against bushing seizure.
Start the bushing
swap by removing the 18mm nut at right. Use a small punch or Dremel to remove
the portion that is pushed into the keyway. Be sure not to let any metal debris
or grindings fall into the gearbox. Stuffing shop towels around the basket will
help keep contaminates out.
The simplest way
to remove the nut is with an impact gun. Next is to find a partner to hold in the
rear brake with the bike in 1st gear. Another method is to purchase or make a basket holder,
which is usually a large pair of ViseGrips
|
|
with two fingers that grab the grooves in the clutch hub. If you were to remove the
entire sidecover, you could put a penny in the teeth of the clutch gear, locking it in place.
Don't be tempted to stick a large screwdriver into the basket and the four threaded lugs that held
the pressure plate. You will break them!
Remove the nut, cone washer,
and flat washer. The hub will now pull out of the way. The bushing will either be
exposed on the mainshaft or still within the hub. Hopefully upon removal, you'll see
no signs of burring or galling of any of the wear surfaces. Slight galling can be
removed with emery cloth. For some reason I do not have any pictures of this stage,
but it's simple even without them.
A bit of play in the fit
between the large drive gear and basket seems to be normal.
Install the new
bushing on the shaft after coating it with a good slime of motor oil or assembly lube.
This is important! We don't want to cook the new bushing before we ever use it! Reinstall
the basket and hub, thrust washer, and lock washer. Make sure that the "OUT SIDE" marked
on the lock washer is just what it says, facing out. Assure everything is seated
and throw the NEW locknut on. Use whatever trick you used to remove it and torque her
down to 87lb-ft (118n-m). Stake the nut into the keyway with the punch. The hard part is done!
After everything is all set,
coat the new steel disc with oil and install it into the basket.
If all you are doing is adding the plate, go ahead and throw the rest of the clutchpack in.
If you are also removing the judder, leave it out, along with it's matching seat and the skinny fiber plate.
replace it with a new "A" (22201-MW3-960) plate. Be sure that all the plates have
a good coating of oil on them.
 |
As shown in the picture at
right, the last fiber plate installed needs to be offset from the others and installed in
the the shallow slots at the top of the basket fingers. Reinstall the throwout
bearing and spacer. Check the other side of the bike to make sure that the clutch
actuator is in the neutral position to assure the throwout rod is seated properly.
|
 |
Finish up the clutch
work by installing the springs and bolts. Tighten the bolts to a mere 9lb-ft (12n-m) in
a criss-cross pattern, using 2 to 3 steps before arriving at the final torque. Be careful
not to over torque these, as the soft basket will break easily. The springs will hold
tension and keep them from loosening.
Reinstall
the clutch cover, being carefull to assure that the o-ring stays in it's groove. A few dabs
of grease will help it stick in place. Never-Sieze the cover bolts and tighten them down to
9lb-ft (12n-m), again using a criss-cross pattern.
Screw in the cable adjustment on
the clutch perch as far as it will go, then adjust free play at the adjustment down on
the cases. Do the fine tuning at the perch.
Clean things
up with a bit of contact cleaner and you're done! Thanks to Tommy Deem for his help with the
info in this page.
Back to top
|
